June Function

DINNER

Wednesday 12th June 2019

RACV

Natural oysters, lime granita

Gruyere panna cotta with tomato confit & bacon

NV Champagne André Heucq ‘Heritage’ Brut Nature 100% Meunier, Zero Dosage, Cuisles

NV Champagne Eric Rodez Grand Cru Brut 100% Pinot Noir, Ambonnay

Salmon Rillette, roe, grilled bread, watercress emulsion

2013 La Chablisienne ‘Côte de Léchet’ Chablis Premier Cru

2013 Oakridge Estate ‘Funder & Diamond Vineyard’ Chardonnay

2013 Curly Flat Chardonnay, Lancefield, Macedon Ranges

Seared duck breast, pickled apple, farro succotash, pea puree, jus gras

2014 Tuğra Boğazkere, Doluca, Diyarbakir, Turkey

2015 Lokum Wines Boğazkere, Dookie

2017 Lokum Wines Boğazkere, Dookie

Bullseye cheese, Tarago triple cream muscatel grapes, crackers, crusty bread, quince paste

2006 Craiglee Shiraz, Sunbury

2006 Côte Rôtie ‘La Landonne’ Delas Freres

2006 Hermitage ‘Les Bessards’ Delas Freres

Pear tart tatin, vanilla bean ice cream

2011 Château Fayau Cadillac 375ml.

2013 Château Raymond-Lafon Sauternes 375ml

Coffee, tea, herbal infusions and Chocolate chunks

1986 Stanton & Killeen Wines Vintage Port, Rutherglen

VSV Scholarship – 2019 Applications now open

2019 Viticultural Society of Victoria scholarship

The Victorian Wine Show and the Viticultural Society of Victoria are pleased to announce that applications are now open for the 2019 Viticultural Society of Victoria scholar award.

This award, sponsored by the Viticultural Society of Victoria, offers:
1.  A pathway for aspiring wine show judges to enter the wine show judging system
2. An introduction to the Viticultural Society of Victoria and attendance at monthly functions of the Society, based in Melbourne.

The successful applicant will be given an associate judging position at the 2019 and 2020 Victorian Wine Shows with costs paid by the Society. Mentoring by senior wine show judges will be an important part of this experience.
In addition, attendance at monthly functions of the Society will be available. These functions are held in Melbourne and are attended by some of Victoria’s leading winemakers and industry figures.
They provide exposure to a wide range of Australian and international wines in a convivial setting drawing on the Society’s extensive cellar.

Previous scholars are Dylan McMahon (2015-2016) and Nicole Bilson (2017-2018). Nicole’s comments on the award can be read below:

“Receiving the Victorian Viticultural Society scholarship has been an incredible experience. As a young wine professional it can be quite difficult to access and taste older wines, especially from Australia. The opportunity to taste and discuss iconic wines at monthly meeting with society members (many of whom are icons of the Australian wine industry themselves) has helped me learn so much about our history. Associate judging at the Victorian Wine Show was a great entry point to the show system. The knowledge I have gained has been invaluable and has opened many doors both in the Australian Wine judging circuit and professionally. I will always be grateful to the Victorian Viticultural Society for its support.”

Applications are open to all members of the Victorian wine industry and should be sent to Robert Paul, Director of the Victorian Wine Show, email: director@vicwineshow.com.au. The closing date is May 31st, 2019.

Applications should include:
Employment history within the wine industry
Reasons for your interest in wine show judging
The names and contact details of two referees

Minutes of the 10th AGM December 7th 1915

Leader(Melbourne, Vic) Sat Dec 1915  : Source TROVE

VITICULTURAL SOCIETY OF VICTORIA,

TENTH ANNUAL MEETING.

SATISFACTORY CROP PROSPECTS.

The annual meeting of the Viticultural Society of Victoria was held at the Colonial Mutual-chambers, Market-street, on Tuesday, 7th inst in the unavoidable absence of the president (Mr. Hans W. H. Irvine) the chair was taken by Mr. A. H. L. Browne. There was an attendance of about twenty growers and. merchants. Mr. F. de Castella, Government Viticulturist, represented the Agricultural department.

REVIEW OF THE YEAR

The annual report, which was read by the hon. secretary (Mr. T. C. Seabrook) opened with a reference to the effects of the war on the industry,and said that while there had been a considerable falling off in trade, the anticipated slump had not occurred. The wine vendor was faced with adverse conditions, amongst which were: –A decrease in the number of consumers through enlistment; a steady increase in cost of production, from vineyard to cellar, without a corresponding increase in retail price; public economy in the use of wine; and the influence of anti-liquor legislation.

As generally anticipated, the 1915 vintage was the most disastrous known, and far less than was required for all purposes. The excessive drought accounted for most of the shortage, but in the Lillydale district frost played complete havoc. In Victoria 605,638 gallons of wine were made this year, as against 1,121,491 gallons in 1914, while in South Australia the yield, though better than expected, was only a million and a half gallons,of which approximately half a million were used to make spirit, leaving less than a million to cater for the home and export trade. The shortage is to be regretted, but the small crop meant uniformly good quality, and very good prices.

Everything seems to favour a good crop for 1916, good rains from May to September and mild weather subsequently helped on the vines. While many of the vines have not recovered from the drought, others will bear more heavily by reason of the greater accumulation of plant food in the soil, due to last year’s lack of growth. A big vintage is badly needed, as for two or three years crops have been far below normal, and prices have been so high as to somewhat limit the demand. It is the general opinion that our wines are far too dear, and it would be satisfactory if the 1916 vintage should relieve the tension with a heavy crop. Perhaps the greatest effect of the wine shortage has been upon the price of fortifying spirit, which in the last few months has advanced enormously, with supplies equal to only about half the requirements. So serious has been the want that the Ministry was some months ago approached in reference to admitting imported spirit for fortifying at a duty equal to excise on Australian wine spirit. The shortage will naturally result in the making of more dry wine, and it is gratifying to know that the London market for dry red of a Burgundy type is fairly active. The London importing houses already perceive an increase in the demand for Australian wine, resulting from the enthusiasm for all things Australian created by the performance of our troops at the Dardanelles. Unfortunately, the question of finding sufficient casks is already a serious problem, with very little indication of a means of solving it.

The operation of the Early Closing Act has had a direct influence upon the sale of wine, especially the better class wines and champagne, which were formerly largeIy used at cafes in theatre super parties. This outlet is now closed for the duration of the war, at least.

The supply of American grafted vines is still much below the demand, but it is hoped t]hat by 1917, with suitable seasons, the production of resistant wood will enable the Agricultural department to meet all requirements. During the year tile council had forwarded to the Prime Minister a protest in regard to the Imperial Chancellor’s proposal to increase the duty upon Australian wines by 300 percent. As this matter may not have been definitely shelved, it was decided to watch events with a view to further action if necessary. A donation of £10 10/ to the Lady Stanley Australia Day Fund had been given.

The obituary for the past year included Mr. W. C. Vahland, of Bendigo, at the advanced age of 87; Mr. Chlas. Brache and Mr E. Hartkorf. Sympathy was expressed with Mr. Hans Irvine in the loss of his wife,and also on account of his own long continued illness. Reference was made to the death at the ripe old age of 91 years of Mrs. Graham, of Netherby Vineyard, Rutherglen. In the other States there was recorded the gallant death, at the Dardanelles, of Lieutenant-Colonel Carew Raynall. one of the best-known vignerons of South Australia. Mr. F. H. Westphal, of Sydney, senior partner in the firm of Westphal and Clark, had also died.

In moving the adoption of the report,the chairman said that on the whole the crop prospects for the coming season were good. The shortage of casks was a serious factor in the export trade.Their London supporters should be thanked for taking action in opposition to the Imperial Government’s proposed wine duties. He thought the time had come when wines sold here or export should be sold on our own gauges.

The differences when they were gauged at home were sometimes considerable. This rankled in the minds of many growers, but they had not the courage to protest. It was disappointing when the returns did not agree. When wine was sold f.o.b.he thought loss in transit should be borne by the purchaser. The gauges should be taken before shipment. In reply, Mr. Bagenal said that the difficulties of gauging when the wine arrived at the port of shipment would be enormous. Growers who were accurate in their gauging only found a discrepancy of about five gallons in 1000. It was, however, all a matter of price, if they did not buy on their own measurements merchants would have to pay less for the wine. Mr. Burney contended that it was a physical impossibility to gauge a couple of hundred hogsheads when they arrived at the ship’s side; there were not enough, coppers in Melbourne to do it in the limited time available. Mr. De Pury supported the chairman’s position, but no motion was proposed, and the matter dropped. Mr. A. M.Alexander expressed the opinion that the coming crop would not be a large one, and prices would therefore continue high. 

RECONSTITUTION OF VINEYARDS. 
At the request of the chairman, Mr. F. de Castelia, Government Viticulturist, addressed the meeting. He said last season was an extraordinary one; at Rutherglen, where the average rainfall was 22 inches per annum, in 1913 they had 18 inches, and 1914 only 14, four of which fell during December; from July to November there was less than an inch a month. The rain in December had saved the vines from dying out,but the vintage was only half that of the previous year; he hoped, however they had now touched bottom, and would start on the upgrade. It would be premature to forecast the coming crop, but the vines had made a wonderful recovery, although in some cases they were not carrying the full number of bunches. The crop at the college vineyard was normal. 

There were now nearly 5000 acres of vines on American stocks in the State, the bulk of them being in the Rutherglen district. As he predicted at the last meeting, the department had been unable to graft as many cuttings as usual. Great loss resulted from a heat wave which occurred in October. just at the time the scion roots were being severed, so that the strike was the smallest for several years. They had distributed 147,000 grafted vines and 120,000 rootlings. This year there was a shortage of grafting wood, notwithstanding the improved conditions, as the wood must be grown before December to be large enough for the purpose. They had however, obtained half a million cuttingsf rom outside sources, including Mildura, and had grafted the best.There were now in the nursery 230,000 grafts and 500,000 ungrafted. The strike was apparently the best on record. Next year the 30-acre vineyard known as Brierly’s would yield a lot of wood and the time was fast approaching when the demand would be overtaken. A certain number of grafts were raised at Burnley for distribution to clean districts, the wood being obtained from Mildura and Longerenong. Last year 27.000 were raised at -Burnley; this year 65.000 had been grafted, and a strike of 45,000 was expected. 


THE RAISIN INDUSTRY 
The bulk of the grapes now grown in the State were dried into raisins,Sultanas and currants, the development of the industry being phenomenal.The effect of the war had been to immensely increase the value of these fruits in the London markets. Sultanas, which are usually worth about£30 per ton, had now risen to £97. The entire cost of shipment from Mildura to London was £5 per ton. Currants, of which there are usually an over-production, had gone up in London from £23 to £50 per ton. There were produced in a year about 5000 tons of Sultanas, 4500 tons of currants, and 2500 tons of lexias, which was ample for all requirements.At the recent conference of the Dried Fruits Association it; was stated that the present situation would not be exploited, and although prices might be advanced somewhat, because of the rise in wages, this would not be done so as to damage consumption. All the low grades were now sold for distillation, and this year the distilleries would take about 1000 tons, leaving from 1000 to 1500 tons of surplus for export. After supplying New Zealand, the balance would go to Great Britain. The War Office required large quantities of raisins and currants for the use of the forces, and a cable had been received from the Agent-General saying that samples submitted by him had been approved,and asking for quotations. Unfortunately, however, none was now available. The samples referred to were those sent by the department; to the office of the Agent-General. 


The shipping of fresh grapes was an in industry capable of great extension. Grapes of the right sort, properly grown and properly packed,could be shipped anywhere. Sixty-two cases sent by the department to the Panama Exhibition had arrived in excellent order and attracted considerable attention. 


At the conclusion of the meeting Mr. Castella invited the company to sample a number of wines which had been sent from the college cellars for that purpose. These were the product of vines hitherto unknown in Australia, but imported a few years ago from Europe to test their value 
under local conditions. In all 24 varieties were tested, and their merits discussed by the experts present, after which Mr. Castella was accorded a vote of thanks. 
The following office bearers were elected: —President, Mr. Hans Irvine;vice-presidents, Messrs. A. H. L. Browne and M. G. C. Hutton; executivecouncil, Messrs. B. W. Bagenal, C. Oakley, J. M. Alexander, J.Mackereth, J. Mooney, C. Morris, A. Cullen, and A. Prentice. 

Single Bottle Nights

In January of each year it is time to clean out the society’s wine cellar. Each function held usually requires a minimum of 3 bottles of the same wine to be served at any one time. Inevitably there comes a time in our vast cellar there are single bottles of wines that remain. 

There are two dinners held in January that are called our “Single Bottle Nights” where only 12 members are able to attend. The Winemaster and the President get the night off and the wines are served to members by the Vice President and the Secretary.  Some of the wines are remarkable and some are unremarkable.  

This is the list of wines served at the dinner held at the wonderful restaurant Scorpi, in Carlton on 23rd January 2019. 

2000 Prieur Grand Prieure Brut

2003 Jacques Selosse (Gift Paul Staindl)

2002 Will Taylor Wines Riesling

2007 Pfeiffer Wines Riesling

1971 Marcel Preiss Gewurztraminer

1973 Marcel Priess Gewurztraminer

2005 Josmeyer Riesling ‘Le Dragon’

2006 Domaine Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc

1992 Yeringberg Marsanne Roussanne – Out of Condition

2010 Domaine Testut Chablis 1er Cru ‘Montee de Tonnerre’

2007 Domaine Mongeard Mugneret Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Boudots’

2012 Keller Spatburgunder Trocken ‘S’

1960 Leo Buring DR 103 Angaston Red

1953 Leo Buring DR 27 Stonewell Shiraz – Out of Condition

1984 Yarra Yering Dry Red No 1 Cabernet

1986 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon

1988 Yalumba Octavius Shiraz

1998 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz

2001 Morris Durif

1950 Leo Buring M117 Liqueur Muscat

1973 Orlando Vintage Port

Rutherglen Trip October 2018

Impressions, of this great escape –  By Richard Slater

“After settling in, the day’s official itinerary began with an Apera(sherry) tasting hosted by Chris and Jen Pfeiffer. This was convened on the bridge of the hugely photogenic Sunday creek, watching turtles.

Only a few devotees continue to make this style, which is more complex (of course) to make than I realised. Generally Palomino, picked early, neutral spirit and undergoes biological ageing under flor (which provides a combination of autolytic characters and aldehydes), then barrel ageing.

It was a real education to taste a 2018 sample (appley), a 2014 sample (bready and creamy, and a 2003 (nutty and saline).

These styles make a great aperitif, or I can imagine a good match with soups or charcuterie

We tried a range of local producers; the Pfeiffer  seriously Fine  was excellent; we moved onto some less dry styles; where the Pfeiffer  seriously nutty  (toffee-apple, sultana, vanilla and pastry) was a contrast to the Morris  aged amber apera  (cr me brulee, silk and vanilla).

The stunning lunch included some more local wines.

Then a bus trip with Simon Killeen showed the sights and sites of old vineyards, derelict wineries, and a roll call of (mainly unfamiliar) names, plus digressions through phylloxera and the historic  busts and depressions.

Next came a Muscat and Topaque tasting hosted by David Morris and Chris Pfeiffer The general challenge is to combine aged complexity and freshness; a library of old material is required to provide blending options, and it takes lots of time!

We began with a bracket of Morris topaques; 2017 Morris topaque (another education) as they are generally released with much more barrel age, but this displayed vibrant barley-sugar; and as we progressed via Classic, Grand and rare classifications, greater warmth, richness and complexity came through; the butterscotch, toffee, tea and bracing acidity shone.

These are world-class styles, and very fairly priced.

Then a bracket of Grand Muscats from local producers to try to hint at house styles. We tasted four but my preference was for the Morris rich thick raisins and mocha with a viscous texture; the Pfeiffer ran close, more dark chocolates and a sprightly palate.

A luxurious experiment into the Morris rare ($90) ramped up the flavour volume. With an average age of around 20 years, there was the tension between rose-petal and mocha. Impossible to spit this out, but then we were treated to the Morris CHM. At $500 for a half bottle, this is an exercise in extreme hedonism. Take the Grand and square the flavour impact. Super density, silk and purity. Spend your tax return here for a lesson in vinous indulgence.

But after a break it was time for dinner, where we were treated to excellent locally sourced food at Jones’ and another 15-odd wines.. With legends Mick Morris and Bill Chambers, we were asked to nominate  best  and  most surprising: wines; a tall order, but an inspired question, with votes well spread, Durif is a regional speciality where I learned there was a Rutherglen clone and Griffith clone ; tannin and power reign; the Morris from a cool year (1992) garnered many votes; a complete wine with still with fine tannins, a sensual texture and on a long plateau; for the others revisit in 10 years for greater complexity.

Terrific foods, some really dramatic and pleasured wines,then a bus back to “base camp/s”.

Next day came breakfast with only 4 sparkling reds (Cofield, Jones, Morris and Pfeiffer); my attention and notes were overly cursory, A complete bargain!

Conclusion

This was a thought-provoking trip – easy to get lost in the excellence of the wines presented with blessings of background, technical minute, information and insights; Rutherglen is not just a bunch of fortifieds (Apera, Topaque Muscat, Fortified  vp styles  ) for seniors – a range of white wines, lots of variety  in the reds, and plenty of surprises if you keep your senses, intellect and wallet open.

Previews, experiments, works-in-progress; a thrill.

Enormous thanks to Rutherglen-ites – members- Mandy Jones, Chris Pfeiffer, Damien Cofield, Davis Morris and Simon Killeen, for exceptional organising talents, wine and food selection,  general amiability, instruction and assorted kindnesses.

If you need further inspiration, there is a very easy (short) walk around Lake King, some historic buildings and facades, a few antique shops and bookshops, Gooroomadda olives and some dramatic scenery around Howlong. And its around 3 hours from Melbourne   I’ll be back.”