Impressions, of this great escape –  By Richard Slater

“After settling in, the day’s official itinerary began with an Apera(sherry) tasting hosted by Chris and Jen Pfeiffer. This was convened on the bridge of the hugely photogenic Sunday creek, watching turtles.

Only a few devotees continue to make this style, which is more complex (of course) to make than I realised. Generally Palomino, picked early, neutral spirit and undergoes biological ageing under flor (which provides a combination of autolytic characters and aldehydes), then barrel ageing.

It was a real education to taste a 2018 sample (appley), a 2014 sample (bready and creamy, and a 2003 (nutty and saline).

These styles make a great aperitif, or I can imagine a good match with soups or charcuterie

We tried a range of local producers; the Pfeiffer  seriously Fine  was excellent; we moved onto some less dry styles; where the Pfeiffer  seriously nutty  (toffee-apple, sultana, vanilla and pastry) was a contrast to the Morris  aged amber apera  (cr me brulee, silk and vanilla).

The stunning lunch included some more local wines.

Then a bus trip with Simon Killeen showed the sights and sites of old vineyards, derelict wineries, and a roll call of (mainly unfamiliar) names, plus digressions through phylloxera and the historic  busts and depressions.

Next came a Muscat and Topaque tasting hosted by David Morris and Chris Pfeiffer The general challenge is to combine aged complexity and freshness; a library of old material is required to provide blending options, and it takes lots of time!

We began with a bracket of Morris topaques; 2017 Morris topaque (another education) as they are generally released with much more barrel age, but this displayed vibrant barley-sugar; and as we progressed via Classic, Grand and rare classifications, greater warmth, richness and complexity came through; the butterscotch, toffee, tea and bracing acidity shone.

These are world-class styles, and very fairly priced.

Then a bracket of Grand Muscats from local producers to try to hint at house styles. We tasted four but my preference was for the Morris rich thick raisins and mocha with a viscous texture; the Pfeiffer ran close, more dark chocolates and a sprightly palate.

A luxurious experiment into the Morris rare ($90) ramped up the flavour volume. With an average age of around 20 years, there was the tension between rose-petal and mocha. Impossible to spit this out, but then we were treated to the Morris CHM. At $500 for a half bottle, this is an exercise in extreme hedonism. Take the Grand and square the flavour impact. Super density, silk and purity. Spend your tax return here for a lesson in vinous indulgence.

But after a break it was time for dinner, where we were treated to excellent locally sourced food at Jones’ and another 15-odd wines.. With legends Mick Morris and Bill Chambers, we were asked to nominate  best  and  most surprising: wines; a tall order, but an inspired question, with votes well spread, Durif is a regional speciality where I learned there was a Rutherglen clone and Griffith clone ; tannin and power reign; the Morris from a cool year (1992) garnered many votes; a complete wine with still with fine tannins, a sensual texture and on a long plateau; for the others revisit in 10 years for greater complexity.

Terrific foods, some really dramatic and pleasured wines,then a bus back to “base camp/s”.

Next day came breakfast with only 4 sparkling reds (Cofield, Jones, Morris and Pfeiffer); my attention and notes were overly cursory, A complete bargain!

Conclusion

This was a thought-provoking trip – easy to get lost in the excellence of the wines presented with blessings of background, technical minute, information and insights; Rutherglen is not just a bunch of fortifieds (Apera, Topaque Muscat, Fortified  vp styles  ) for seniors – a range of white wines, lots of variety  in the reds, and plenty of surprises if you keep your senses, intellect and wallet open.

Previews, experiments, works-in-progress; a thrill.

Enormous thanks to Rutherglen-ites – members- Mandy Jones, Chris Pfeiffer, Damien Cofield, Davis Morris and Simon Killeen, for exceptional organising talents, wine and food selection,  general amiability, instruction and assorted kindnesses.

If you need further inspiration, there is a very easy (short) walk around Lake King, some historic buildings and facades, a few antique shops and bookshops, Gooroomadda olives and some dramatic scenery around Howlong. And its around 3 hours from Melbourne   I’ll be back.”